A new toilet is one of the most common repairs in a home. The task is so simple that it can be difficult to find a contractor willing to take the job, and yet many homeowners don’t even know where to begin installing a new toilet. If you are physically capable of lifting about 50 lbs., you can install a toilet. Here is all you need to know to remove and old toilet and install a new one.

Required Tools

Wrenches
Basin: Capable of holding up to three gallons of water
Hack saw
Teflon tape*
Disposable scraper
Flathead screw driver

*Teflon tape is not necessary, but highly recommended

Required Parts

New toilet
Wax ring*
Flexible water supply line**

*The old wax ring cannot be reused and will not be included with your new toilet

**Existing supply lines can often be reused, but should be replaced if they show signs of wear or do not meet your desired standard of appearance.

Step 1: Preparing your work space

Remove the new toilet from the box and arrange the parts in an accessible location that doesn’t interfere with removal of the existing toilet. Become familiar with all of the parts to your new toilet, and make sure nothing is missing before removing the existing toilet. Check that you have all of the needed wrench sizes. Set a water basin near the existing toilet (a nearby shower stall will do).

Step 2: Removing the existing toilet

2a: Shut off the water to the toilet. There should be a shutoff valve near the supply line to your toilet. If there is not, it is recommended to shut off the water at the nearest shutoff and install a shutoff valve before installing your new toilet. Flush the toilet and make sure that the tank does not refill.

2b: Remove the supply line from the toilet by turning the connection in a counterclockwise direction. This may require a wrench. Some water will be left in the line, so it may be helpful to have your basin underneath the connection as you disconnect it.

2c: Remove the plastic flange bolt covers located on each side of the base of the existing toilet. If they do not easily pull off you may need to gently pry them up with a flathead screwdriver. This will expose brass flange bolts, nuts, and washers.

(Note: It is not necessary to remove the tank from the bowl, but this can make lifting the bowl off the closet flange simpler. If you feel you can lift the entire toilet in a controlled manner you may skip step 2d)

2d: Remove the tank from the bowl. There will be two bolts that connect the tank to the bowl. Check that no water is left in the tank, and undo the nuts from these bolts. The tank should easily lift off the bowl. Carry the tank out of the room to avoid a cluttered work space.

2e: Remove the bowl from the closet flange by undoing the nuts from the flange bolts. There will still be water in the trap. Rocking the bowl back and forth so that it is still seated over the drain will break the wax seal and remove a large portion of water from the trap.

Once you have broken the seal and heard some of the water drain out, lift the toilet off the flange. Be sure to hold the bowl level or slightly forward so that no water escapes the trap. Set the bowl over the basin or in the shower stall, and tilt it back to remove the rest of the water from the trap. Place a rag inside the floor drain to avoid a sewage smell. When you are certain no water remains, carry the bowl out of the room to avoid a cluttered work space.

Step 3: Inspect the closet flange and sub-floor

Scrape the wax off the closet flange and check that it is in good condition. Check that the sub-floor shows no signs of water damage. A cracked flange or water damaged floor should be dealt with at this time. If there are no signs of damage, you can begin installing your new toilet.

Step4: Assemble and mount your new toilet

4a: You may need to assemble the functioning components of the tank and install the gaskets to the bolt holes in the bottom of the tank. Many new toilets come with the tank already assembled. Be sure that the tank is correctly assembled and ready to be attached to the bowl.

(Note: Step 4d can be completed before 4b. Most toilets will suggest mounting the bowl on the closet flange before attaching the tank. This will make handling the toilet simpler. For toilets in tight positions that will make reaching the tank connection bolts difficult, it may be easier to assemble the entire toilet before mounting it. Carefully evaluate the difficulties of a more awkward toilet and access to tank bolts to decide which will be simpler for you.)

4b: Insert the flange bolts into the slots in the closet flange so that the threads are pointing up and the head is positioned in the narrow section of the slot. Place the wax ring on the flange so that the plastic drop tube is centered over the drain and the wax is pointing up.

(Most manufacturers will recommend applying the wax ring to the bowl, but this can create unnecessary difficulties) Set the bowl on the flange so that the bolts pass through the holes provided in the base. The wax ring should hold the toilet above the floor at first. Twist the bowl left and right slightly until it is seated evenly on the floor. If the ring does not hold the toilet up at first, you may not have an adequate seal and will need a ring with more wax.

4c: Secure the flange bolts with nuts and washers. If the flange bolt cover comes with plastic washers, you will need to place the plastic washer over the bolt first, then the brass washer, then the nut. Snug the nut, but do not over tighten to avoid damaging your new toilet. The flange bolt covers will snap on the plastic washers.

4d: Attach the tank to the bowl by lining up the holes in the back of the bowl with the holes in the bottom of the tank. Secure in place with all of the nuts, bolts, washers, and gaskets provided. Snug the nuts until the tank cannot rock. (Over tightening will damage your new toilet.)

Step 5: Connect the water supply line

If you have not installed the water supply connector to the bottom of your tank, do so at this time. Wrap the threads of the supply connectors on both the toilet and the supply line with Teflon tape so that they are covered but still protrude through the tape. Thread the flexible supply line onto the connector at the toilet and the copper supply line until tight. Turn on the water and check for leaks.

Step 6: Check the function of the toilet and make necessary adjustments.

The chain length between the handle and the flapper may need to be adjusted to ensure that the toilet flushes completely and then closes the flapper valve. The floater ball is also equipped with adjustment screws to ensure that the tank fills only to the desired level.

Flush the toilet with the tank lid off. Make sure that the toilet completely flushes and then the flapper valve closes. Watch the tank refill and make sure that it fills to just below the overflow tube. Once you are satisfied with the function of your new toilet, replace the lid and clean up.