In most cases a homeowner will choose to replace rather than repair an older faucet, since faucets tend to go out of style about as quickly as they begin to fail.

Homes with exceptionally decorative faucets or limited budgets may choose to repair an older faucet, so this guide includes some “trouble shooting” repair tips at the end. First let’s begin with what is involved in replacing an old faucet.

Tools Required

Adjustable wrench
Utility knife
Thin scraper
Pipe Wrench*
Short Wrench (Basin Wrench) **
Flash light
Bucket
Tubing cutter***

*A pipe wrench will only be needed if the lock nuts that mount the faucet or connect the drain cover to the trap are rounded off.

**A basin wrench is only required if there is not enough space under the sink for a traditional wrench.

***A tubing cutter is only required if the existing sink is not installed with threaded unions

Required Parts

New Faucet
Plumbers putty or silicone caulking*
Flexible supply lines**

*Plumbers putty will void the warranty on many newer faucets. Be sure to read the manual for your faucet before choosing between silicone and putty.

**In many cases you will be able to reuse existing supply lines, but new lines will not be included with your faucet if they are needed.

Step1: Removing the old faucet

1a: Shut off the water. There should be a shutoff valve located just before the threaded union in both your hot and cold supply lines under the sink. If there is not, you will need to find the nearest shutoff valve or shut the water off at the main, located near your water meter. Turn the sink on to make sure the water is off and drain any water remaining in the line.

(Tip: Installing shutoff valves to the supply lines under the sink, if they do not already exist, will make future repairs much simpler. This should be done before you install the new faucet.)

1b: Remove the supply lines. Some water will be left in the lines, so keep a bucket underneath any union that you disconnect. Flexible supply lines will simply unscrew where they connect to the faucet and water supply. There should still be a threaded union located near the shutoff valves that will unscrew for copper supply lines, but these lines may be soldered to the faucet. If there are no threaded unions, you will need to cut the copper with a tubing cutter. Be sure to make the cut after the shutoff valves in your supply line if the water is not shutoff at the main.

(Note: You will need to install a threaded union to use flexible supply lines. Threaded unions and flexible supply lines will make future repairs much simpler)

1c: Disconnect the old faucet. Faucets are usually mounted in one of two ways, top mount or bottom mount. Bottom mount faucets are attached by mounting screws located underneath a decorative cap in the handle that can be removed with a putty knife or screw driver. Top mount faucets are attached with mounting nuts located under the sink where the supply lines were connected to the faucet. Remove these screws or nuts and the faucet should be loose.

1d: Disconnect the drain cap rod. There will be a thin piece of metal or plastic that connects the drain cap to the drain cap rod. It should easily slide off the rod allowing your faucet to be removed.

1e: Lift the faucet off the sink and place out of your way. If the faucet is held in place by adhesive caulking, use a putty knife or utility knife to break the seal between the faucet and sink. Clean off all remaining caulking and dirt before installing the new faucet.

1f: Remove the drain cap and escutcheon by unscrewing the nut connecting it to the trap with a wrench. Pull the drain cap out of the drain. You will see cross members in the center of the drain. Use pliers or a screw driver to twist these counter clockwise. If it is difficult to twist, you may need to break a silicone or putty seal with a knife.
(Note: this step is not required to install a new faucet, but most new faucets come with matching drain caps and escutcheons.)

1g: clean up any remaining caulking and dirt.

Step 2: Install the new faucet

2a: Mount your faucet by placing it on the sink over the pre cut holes. Secure the nuts or screws depending on which mounting type you have.

(Note: It is easier to have a helper hold the faucet in position while you secure the nuts on a top mounted faucet, but one person can install the faucet by hand tightening the nuts, then positioning the faucet, then tightening the nuts with a wrench.)
(Note: It is not required but recommended to seat a top mounted faucet in a bead of silicone that is applied before the faucet is mounted.)

2b: Install the drain cap and escutcheon by placing a bead of silicone around the drain hole and reversing the process you used to remove the old one. Do not over tighten the escutcheon with pliers. The cross members in the drain can be easily bent and destroyed. Follow the manual for the placement of all gaskets and nuts, and then connect the drain to the trap.

2c: Insert the drain cap and connect to the drain cap rod.

2d: Thread flexible supply lines on to the faucet and water supply. You can choose to solder in copper lines, but threaded unions and flexible lines are much simpler to install and maintain.

2e: Turn on the water and check for leaks. In most cases a leak in a new faucet is caused by a loose nut or a misplaced gasket. Repair any problems and clean up.

Faucet repair tips (trouble shooting)

Leaking water supply: This is probably the most simple and inexpensive problem to fix. If you notice water under your sink just below the supply to your faucet, you have leaky supply lines. Try tightening the lines. If this doesn’t work, new lines are inexpensive.

Dripping faucet: This is one of the most common problems with a faucet. This is caused by either a bad compression gasket or a worn cartridge (Single lever faucets are usually cartridge and double lever are usually compression).

In both cases you will need to remove the faucet handle. Compression handles will be attached to the valve stem by a screw located under a cap in the handle. Cartridge faucet handles can be attached in a variety of ways that may include simply twisting the handle lever counterclockwise.

If you have a compression faucet simply remove the valve stem and replace any worn gaskets. You will need to remove the entire faucet body to replace a worn cartridge, and the entire cartridge will need replaced. Luckily this type of faucet is far more durable than compression.

Water spray: When the screen in the faucet becomes clogged, water may spray in an inconvenient manner. Removed the screen with a screwdriver and clean or replace it. For homes with hard water, the problem may repeat enough to make it more sensible to remove the screen entirely.